Why Okinawa Isn’t Like the Rest of Japan
When Courtney first told me she was applying for a job in Okinawa, I immediately constructed a mental image of my potential new life. Thoughts of Shibuya Crossing, Tsukiji Fish Market, micro hotels, packed subway cars, and izakayas full of salary men raced through my mind. Like most Americans, my primary reference point for Japan is the hustle and bustle of Tokyo shown on TV and in movies. As I’d soon find out, though, Okinawa is very much its own place.
Sometimes called the “Hawaii of Japan,” Okinawa and the 50th state have more in common than sandy beaches and clear blue waters. There’s also a shared history of existing as an independent kingdom before being enveloped by a larger nation. That sovereign past has shaped society and culture in ways that make Okinawa a truly unique place.
The first thing to note about Okinawa’s uniqueness, however, is its geographic location in relation to the rest of Japan. The main island of Okinawa is the largest of the Ryukyu Islands chain and lies 400 miles south of the mainland. Between the 26th and 27th parallel, it’s at the same latitude as Texas and Florida, with the warm weather to match. Fun fact: Japan stretches about the same distance as the entire east coast of the United States. Who knew? As in the US, regional differences here exist based on geography, but there’s more to the story with Okinawa.
North tip of Japan (Hokkaido) to Okinawa = 1500 miles.
Eastern tip of Maine (Lubec) to the Everglades in FL… also 1500 miles.
Historically, Okinawa was independent from Japan for most of its existence. From humble beginnings, the small, agrarian island became the seat of power for the Ryukyu Kingdom. Okinawa’s importance in the region grew in the 13th century as the capital city of Naha developed into a major trade hub. Taking advantage of their position along the shipping route between Korea, Japan, and China, Ryukyuans created wealth by selling the goods of these nations to each other. With few natural resources of their own, trading was the only viable way for them to advance beyond subsistence farming. They had an especially close relationship with China, which was the regional superpower under the Ming dynasty. The subservient Ryukyuans were required to pay tribute to China and dutifully partake in elaborate ceremonies to show their gratitude. For their compliance, China granted them a trading outpost on the mainland, and allowed select young men to attend their schools. With so much of their financial and educational advancement bound to China, it’s no wonder the Ryukuans were deeply influenced by the Chinese. In contrast, Japan was a backwater of feudal clans, and the ruling shoguns had little interest in the tiny island kingdom to their south.
That all changed in the early 17th century, as Japan entered the Edo Period. During this era, a new emperor consolidated power and developed a hierarchical government. The country became much more insular during this time as well. In 1609, the southernmost domain on the Japanese mainland, the Satsuma (or Kagoshima), invaded the Ryukyu Kingdom, making it a vassal state. While the Ryukyus now had to pay tribute to Japan too, they remained semi autonomous and, unlike the rest of Japan, kept relations with China until 1875. Japan finally incorporated the Ryukyu Kingdom in 1879 and renamed it Okinawa Prefecture.
For most of its history, Okinawa was not a true part of Japan. Even after being conquered, it was held apart from the rest of the nation for another 270 years, serving as a pawn in a bigger geopolitical game with China. During this time, Okinawans maintained their independence as much as possible, continuing to practice their own customs and speak their own language. This partial integration is what helped the island maintain its own identity compared to the rest of the country.
In more recent history, Okinawans were caught in the middle of some of the most intense and bloody fighting in WWII. During the Battle of Okinawa, the Japanese military forced thousands of passive civilians into service, and estimates suggest that at least 40,000 out of 300,000 residents died during the campaign. Japanese troops killed many Okinawans themselves, not seeing them as equals for having mixed ethnic roots. Troops also encouraged civilians to commit suicide instead of allowing themselves to be captured by Americans, who they falsely claimed would torture, rape, and kill them. Tragically, scores jumped to their deaths along the island’s sharp, rocky cliffs. This horrific example highlights the perception at the time of Okinawans being “other” to the Japanese, even though they were countrymen.
The Okinawa Peace Memorial Park serves as a powerful reminder of the many lives lost during WWII. Photo Credit: The Japan Times
Following the war, Okinawa remained occupied by the US until 1952 and under American control until 1971, when the island was transferred back to Japan. Even now, though, the US military maintains dozens of bases and over 40,000 troops on the island, representing more than half of the total US force in Japan. This continued American presence is noticeable, as the roar of C-130s and fighter jet engines is never far off. While a US military presence is necessary for stability in the region, the oversized proportion shouldered by Okinawans has caused justifiable resentment towards both the US and Japanese governments.
With so many Americans on the island, there’s a lot more English spoken here than on mainland Japan, which has made it easier to get by. The American influence has even had a culinary impact, with “taco rice” and the fast-food chain A&W being local favorites. Traditional Okinawan cuisine differs from the rest of Japan as well. While it’s easy to access all the Japanese favorites we know and love, there are plenty of distinctly Okinawan dishes. For example, you’re far more likely to find noodle shops here selling Okinawa soba than ramen. This local specialty consists of wheat noodles in a light broth, topped with pork and fish cake, and is served with pickled ginger. Throughout the rest of Japan, “soba” is derived from buckwheat, so the wheat-only soba here is unique. Pork is a notable part of the diet as well, with local Agu pork being especially revered for its marbled fat and flavor, similar to Waygu beef. A few other delicacies are goya (bitter melon), beni imo (Okinawan purple potato), and umibudo (sea grapes). Many of these traditional, regional foods (along with seaweed and fish) have contributed to Okinawa being a Blue Zone; one of seven areas in the world with the highest concentration of centenarians.
On the less healthy side of things, Okinawans enjoy their alcohol, preferring the local awamori over sake. Awamori is a distilled rice liquor that clocks in between 25-40% ABV. Courtney and I haven’t become fans yet, but word on the street is that the aged versions are quite good so we’ll have to keep trying. The go-to beer is Orion, which is proudly brewed here in the city of Nago. It’s nothing to write home about, but it tastes pretty damn good in an ice cold mug with a plate of karaage (Japanese fried chicken).
This is a set meal from a local izakaya. Items listed in clockwise order from top left: sea grapes, vegetable tempura, peanut tofu, goya champuru, braised pork hock, and salmon sashimi. Served with the obligatory rice, noodles, and dipping sauce on the side.
Okinawa soba with two different cuts of pork, fish cake, and egg, with a little pickled ginger to top it off. On the table of every soba shop you’ll also find a small bottle of awamori infused with chili peppers in case you want to add a dash of spice to your soup.
With its complex history as an outlier, it should be no surprise Okinawa has a different feel to it than the rest of Japan. While part of me still desires that modern, fast-paced Tokyo experience I had imagined, living in Okinawa has afforded an easy and approachable integration into Japanese life. I can get by with my limited language skills, easily find a restaurant serving sushi or a cheeseburger, and learn about both Japanese and Okinawan culture at the same time. It’s the best of both worlds. Many people have told me that Okinawans are friendly, and while that’s quite a generalization, I’ve found it to be true so far. Whether it’s genetic predisposition, societal conditioning, or just the subtropical climate that keeps folks in good spirits, I appreciate the good vibes here. Maybe it’s rubbing off on me as well, because I couldn’t be happier that I’m on this extraordinary little island.
Note: Most of the historical details in this article were sourced from the book “Okinawa: The History of an Island People” by George Kerr.
